Behind the leaves
Some tea trees are native, others have traveled. Explore the varietals grown in each terroir, and how terroir and plant combine to shape the cup, guided by the master’s hand.
Wuyi oolong tea registry
Reconstructing the Named Bush Tradition of the Wuyi Mountains
The mountains of Wǔyí Shān (武夷山) in northern Fujian preserve one of the most remarkable cultivar traditions in the history of tea. For centuries, tea gardens in these mountains were planted with cài chá ( 菜茶) — seed-grown tea populations containing immense genetic diversity. Unlike modern tea plantations dominated by standardized clones, early Wuyi tea fields consisted of thousands of genetically different plants. When farmers discovered a bush with exceptional fragrance, vigor, or character, it was often marked and propagated. Such plants were frequently given names. Some names referred to flowers, animals, or plants. Others evoked mythological figures, auspicious objects, historical characters, or poetic imagery. Over generations this practice produced a unique phenomenon: tea bushes became individually named plants. Local tradition later described this cultural landscape as the world of míng cóng (名丛)—the named bushes of Wuyi.
Historical monographs, local gazetteers, and modern botanical surveys record hundreds of such names. Some represent stable cultivars still planted today; others originally referred to individual bushes preserved in particular valleys or cliffs. Taken together, these names form a botanical and cultural archive of Wuyi tea history. The catalogue below gathers cultivar names recorded across historical literature, tea surveys, and cultivar documentation. The intention is not to impose a rigid botanical classification, but to preserve the widest possible record of names that have appeared in the Wuyi tea tradition.
I. The Five Famous Bushes : Wu Da Ming Cong - 五大名丛
- 大红袍 · Dà Hóng Páo
- 白鸡冠 · Bái Jī Guān
- 铁罗汉 · Tiě Luó Hàn
- 水金龟 · Shuǐ Jīn Guī
- 半天妖 · Bàn Tiān Yāo
II. Traditional Bushes - míng cóng - 名丛
| 一枝春 · Yī Zhī Chūn | 一叶金 · Yī Yè Jīn | 一枝香 · Yī Zhī Xiāng |
| 八步香 · Bā Bù Xiāng | 八角莲 · Bā Jiǎo Lián | 九品莲 · Jiǔ Pǐn Lián |
| 七宝丹 · Qī Bǎo Dān | 七宝塔 · Qī Bǎo Tǎ | 千年矮 · Qiān Nián Ǎi |
| 千里香 · Qiān Lǐ Xiāng | 千层莲 · Qiān Céng Lián | 万年红 · Wàn Nián Hóng |
| 万年青 · Wàn Nián Qīng | 万年木 · Wàn Nián Mù | 万年松 · Wàn Nián Sōng |
| 大红梅 · Dà Hóng Méi | 大夫板 · Dà Fū Bǎn | 大桂林 · Dà Guì Lín |
| 大绿独占 · Dà Lǜ Dú Zhàn | 小玉桂 · Xiǎo Yù Guì | 小桃仁 · Xiǎo Táo Rén |
| 小红袍 · Xiǎo Hóng Páo | 小罗汉 · Xiǎo Luó Hàn | 小观音 · Xiǎo Guān Yīn |
| 小金桂 · Xiǎo Jīn Guì | 山上蓁 · Shān Shàng Zhēn | 马蹄金 · Mǎ Tí Jīn |
| 马尾素 · Mǎ Wěi Sù | 王母桃 · Wáng Mǔ Táo | 五彩冠 · Wǔ Cǎi Guān |
| 五经魁 · Wǔ Jīng Kuí | 不知春 · Bù Zhī Chūn | 不老丹 · Bù Lǎo Dān |
| 不见天 · Bù Jiàn Tiān | 云南碧 · Yún Nán Bì | 天南星 · Tiān Nán Xīng |
| 天明冬 · Tiān Míng Dōng | 月中仙 · Yuè Zhōng Xiān | 月上香 · Yuè Shàng Xiāng |
| 月月红 · Yuè Yuè Hóng | 月月桂 · Yuè Yuè Guì | 水洋梅 · Shuǐ Yáng Méi |
| 水底月 · Shuǐ Dǐ Yuè | 水沙莲 · Shuǐ Shā Lián | 水葫芦 · Shuǐ Hú Lu |
| 水中蒲 · Shuǐ Zhōng Pú | 水中仙 · Shuǐ Zhōng Xiān | 水金钱 · Shuǐ Jīn Qián |
| 双如意 · Shuāng Rú Yì | 双凤冠 · Shuāng Fèng Guān | 孔雀尾 · Kǒng Què Wěi |
| 出林素 · Chū Lín Sù | 出墙梅 · Chū Qiáng Méi | 初伏兰 · Chū Fú Lán |
| 四季竹 · Sì Jì Zhú | 四方竹 · Sì Fāng Zhú | 四季香 · Sì Jì Xiāng |
| 四季兰 · Sì Jì Lán | 半畔菊 · Bàn Pàn Jú | 玉如意 · Yù Rú Yì |
| 玉女掌 · Yù Nǚ Zhǎng | 玉美人 · Yù Měi Rén | 玉兔耳 · Yù Tù Ěr |
| 玉井流香 · Yù Jǐng Liú Xiāng | 玉堂春 · Yù Táng Chūn | 玉蟾 · Yù Chán |
| 玉蟾蜍 · Yù Chán Chú | 玉孩儿 · Yù Hái Ér | 玉连环 · Yù Lián Huán |
| 玉麒麟 · Yù Qí Lín | 玉狮子 · Yù Shī Zi | 玉樱桃 · Yù Yīng Táo |
| 正唐梅 · Zhèng Táng Méi | 正木瓜 · Zhèng Mù Guā | 正梅占 · Zhèng Méi Zhàn |
| 正水枝 · Zhèng Shuǐ Zhī | 正玉盏 · Zhèng Yù Zhǎn | 正斑竹 · Zhèng Bān Zhú |
| 正玛瑙 · Zhèng Mǎ Nǎo | 正参须 · Zhèng Shēn Xū | 正荔枝 · Zhèng Lì Zhī |
| 正松罗 · Zhèng Sōng Luó | 正白毫 · Zhèng Bái Háo | 正紫锦 · Zhèng Zǐ Jǐn |
| 正长春 · Zhèng Cháng Chūn | 正束香 · Zhèng Shù Xiāng | 正琉璃 · Zhèng Liú Lí |
| 正坠柳 · Zhèng Zhuì Liǔ | 正浮萍 · Zhèng Fú Píng | 正银光 · Zhèng Yín Guāng |
| 正唐树 · Zhèng Táng Shù | 正荆棘 · Zhèng Jīng Jí | 正罗衣 · Zhèng Luó Yī |
| 正棋楠 · Zhèng Qí Nán | 正青苔 · Zhèng Qīng Tái | 正白果 · Zhèng Bái Guǒ |
| 正凤尾 · Zhèng Fèng Wěi | 正萱草 · Zhèng Xuān Cǎo | 正桑葚 · Zhèng Sāng Shèn |
| 正次春 · Zhèng Cì Chūn | 正山栀 · Zhèng Shān Zhī | 正石红 · Zhèng Shí Hóng |
| 正石蟹 · Zhèng Shí Xiè | 正郁李 · Zhèng Yù Lǐ | 正蟠桃 · Zhèng Pán Táo |
| 正墨兰 · Zhèng Mò Lán | 正竹兰 · Zhèng Zhú Lán | 正玉菊 · Zhèng Yù Jú |
| 正太仑 · Zhèng Tài Lún | 正太仓 · Zhèng Tài Cāng | 正雪梨 · Zhèng Xuě Lí |
| 正碧梅 · Zhèng Bì Méi | 正太阳 · Zhèng Tài Yáng | 正碧桃 · Zhèng Bì Táo |
| 正太阴 · Zhèng Tài Yīn | 正芍药 · Zhèng Sháo Yào | 正瑞香 · Zhèng Ruì Xiāng |
| 正黄龙 · Zhèng Huáng Lóng | 正玉兰 · Zhèng Yù Lán | 正肉桂 · Zhèng Ròu Guì |
| 絮柳条 · Xù Liǔ Tiáo | 罗汉松 · Luó Hàn Sōng | 名橄榄 · Míng Gǎn Lǎn |
| 苦瓜 · Kǔ Guā | 人参果 · Rén Shēn Guǒ | 英雄草 · Yīng Xióng Cǎo |
| 精神草 · Jīng Shén Cǎo | 忘忧草 · Wàng Yōu Cǎo | 灵芝草 · Líng Zhī Cǎo |
| 满树香 · Mǎn Shù Xiāng | 满山香 · Mǎn Shān Xiāng | 满地红 · Mǎn Dì Hóng |
| 满江红 · Mǎn Jiāng Hóng | 叶下红 · Yè Xià Hóng | 叶下青 · Yè Xià Qīng |
| 渊明菊 · Yuān Míng Jú | 太阳菊 · Tài Yáng Jú | 日日红 · Rì Rì Hóng |
| 瓶中梅 · Píng Zhōng Méi | 桃红梅 · Táo Hóng Méi | 素心兰 · Sù Xīn Lán |
| 状元红 · Zhuàng Yuán Hóng | 沉香草 · Chén Xiāng Cǎo | 凤尾草 · Fèng Wěi Cǎo |
| 海龙角 · Hǎi Lóng Jiǎo | 鸡爪黄 · Jī Zhuǎ Huáng | 麒麟 · Qí Lín |
| 并蒂兰 · Bìng Dì Lán | 十八草 · Shí Bā Cǎo | 白茉莉 · Bái Mò Lì |
| 步步娇 · Bù Bù Jiāo | 胭脂米 · Yān Zhī Mǐ | 夜明珠 · Yè Míng Zhū |
| 梧桐子 · Wú Tóng Zǐ | 宋玉树 · Sòng Yù Shù | 野蔷薇 · Yě Qiáng Wēi |
| 紫金锭 · Zǐ Jīn Dìng | 瓜子仁 · Guā Zǐ Rén | 瓜子金 · Guā Zǐ Jīn |
| 隐士笔 · Yǐn Shì Bǐ | 吊金龟 · Diào Jīn Guī | 午时莲 · Wǔ Shí Lián |
| 仙人掌 · Xiān Rén Zhǎng | 倒叶柳 · Dào Yè Liǔ | 君子竹 · Jūn Zǐ Zhú |
| 国公鞭 · Guó Gōng Biān | 岭上梅 · Lǐng Shàng Méi | 龙须草 · Lóng Xū Cǎo |
| 碎毛猴 · Suì Máo Hóu | 正毛猴 · Zhèng Máo Hóu | 不老仙翁 · Bù Lǎo Xiān Wēng |
| 北斗 · Běi Dǒu | 奇丹 · Qí Dān | 雀舌 · Què Shé |
| 肉桂 · Ròu Guì | 白牡丹 · Bái Mǔ Dān | 十里香 · Shí Lǐ Xiāng |
| 百瑞香 · Bǎi Ruì Xiāng | 金钱 · Jīn Qián | 金雀舌 · Jīn Què Shé |
| 玉观音 · Yù Guān Yīn | 金罗汉 · Jīn Luó Hàn | 留兰香 · Liú Lán Xiāng |
| 石角 · Shí Jiǎo | 九龙珠 · Jiǔ Lóng Zhū | 醉八仙 · Zuì Bā Xiān |
| 黄金锭 · Huáng Jīn Dìng |
III. Introduced Cultivars
水仙 · Shuǐ Xiān
佛手 · Fó Shǒu
奇兰 · Qí Lán
梅占 · Méi Zhàn
毛蟹 · Máo Xiè
铁观音 · Tiě Guān Yīn
黄旦 · Huáng Dàn
本山 · Běn Shān
大叶乌龙 · Dà Yè Wū Lóng
矮脚乌龙 · Ǎi Jiǎo Wū Lóng
白毛猴 · Bái Máo Hóu
IV - Modern Hybrid Cultivars
悦茗香 · Yuè Míng Xiāng (101)
黄观音 · Huáng Guān Yīn (105)
紫牡丹 · Zǐ Mǔ Dān (111)
银凤凰 · Yín Fèng Huáng (121)
金牡丹 · Jīn Mǔ Dān (203)
金观音 · Jīn Guān Yīn (204)
金玫瑰 · Jīn Méi Guī (212)
春兰 · Chūn Lán (301)
紫红袍 · Zǐ Hóng Páo (303)
丹桂 · Dān Guì (304)
瑞香 · Ruì Xiāng (305)
黄玫瑰 · Huáng Méi Guī (506)
References
Luó Shèngcái (罗盛财) — Wuyi Yancha Mingcong Lu (武夷岩茶名丛录)
Lín Fùquán (林馥泉) — Wuyi Chaye Zhi Shengchan Zhizao Ji Yunxiao (武夷茶叶之生产制造及运销), 1943
Wuyi Shan Gazetteer — Wuyishan Zhi (武夷山市志)
Fujian Tea Cultivar Records — Fujian Chashu Pinzhong Zhi (福建茶树品种志)
Fujian Academy of Agricultural Sciences — Tea Research Institute publications
Wuyi Famous Bush Garden Germplasm Surveys — (武夷山名丛园资源调查)